Speak Chinese - Tried, tested, tailored

CITYLIFE / Odds & Ends








Tried, tested, tailored
By Ed Hiller (Thsat's Beijing)
Updated: 2006-09-19 16:26






[Photos by Simon Lim]

When looking at tailors in Beijing, it can seem that there are bargains
to be had at every turn. But you usually get what you pay for, and if you
are unlucky, you don't even get that. The two major factors that
determine the quality of a suit are construction methods and fabrics
used. Here is a guide to getting the best suit for your money.

Construction methods

A fundamental aspect of a suit is the body canvas. This is a piece of
interlining that sits behind the front of the jacket. There are two very
different methods for "canvassing" a jacket. The first is known as a
"fused" canvas. This is a piece of artificial interlining which is
physically fused to the interior of the front of the jacket. It is the
construction method used by the cheaper tailors in Beijing, and is also
the most commonly used method for mass produced ready-to-wear suit
jackets worldwide. The disadvantage is that the canvas can become
detached from the interior of the jacket after a period of time, or
through heavy-handed dry-cleaning. The cost of the labor to make this
type of suit can be less than RMB 500.


The alternative to the fused canvas is known as the "floating" canvas.
This is a piece of natural fabric that is stitched, not glued, to the
interior of the face of the jacket. The advantage is that the jacket will
keep its shape. A good suit should have a floating canvas, either hand-
or machine-stitched. The cheapest price for this kind of construction in
Beijing is around RMB 2,000 for labor alone. However, the difference in
quality from fused canvas jackets is immense.

Fabric

The first thing to consider is its origin. The most important division is
between Chinese and imported fabric, and the imported fabric will be
either Italian or British. Also, the fabric should basically be wool.
There may be other fibers added, for example cashmere, but they should be
natural, not artificial.

Chinese fabric is reasonably priced. Don't be too taken in by, for
example, claims of a high cashmere content. Not all cashmere is the same.
Chinese fabric is the cheapest, and it should be possible to buy enough
cloth for a suit for less than RMB 200.

British and Italian fabrics are the best in the world. British fabric
really only exists at the very top end of the quality scale, and is
expensive-expect to pay a minimum of RMB 5,000 for a suit length in
Beijing. British fabric is relatively heavy, hard-wearing and the designs
are generally classic and traditional. Italian fabric is available in
lighter weights, and is also offered in more varied designs and colors.
It also starts much cheaper than the British cloth, at around RMB 2,000
for the fabric and labor inclusive.


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